Squash are widely available from August through March, but are at their best in fall. Select squash that are unblemished, firm and heavy for their size. Look for rinds that are dull or matte, not glossy (a sign of squash picked too soon before it can sweeten), and hard; a soft rind signals a watery interior. If present, the stem should be firmly attached.
Winter squash are not on the Environmental Working Group’s <www.ewg.org> list of ‘Dirty Dozen’ produce that are most important to buy as organic. They are, however, used as an ‘intercrop’ to remediate contaminated soil, and this ability to absorb contaminants might be a reason to buy from organic growers, whose soil is less likely to contain hydrocarbon contaminants.
Whole, winter squash can be stored in a cool, dark place for as long as six months, depending on the type. Wash the rind thoroughly in running water before using. Once cut, store in the refrigerator for up to two days, or freeze.
To steam winter squash, peel and cut into one-inch squares; most varieties need less than 10 minutes of steaming. If roasting, there’s no need to peel the squash first.
Serve winter squash on its own, processed into soup, stuffed and baked, or use it in:
– tagines and other stews
– chili
– risotto or pasta dishes, including stuffed in ravioli or tubular pasta like manicotti
– mock pasta preparations (spaghetti squash)
– mashed with saut’ed onions and herbs
– combined with bell peppers, tomatoes and corn
muffins, breads and other baked goods.
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